Mitten Sewing Pattern – Cozy and Quick Handmade Gift

Sew a pair of warm, cozy mittens for you or for a gift.

Are you looking for a last-minute handmade gift for a friend or family member? Perhaps you would like to get ahead on Christmas gifts this year? You have come to the right place. Mittens are the perfect gift for anyone living in less than balmy climes: great for your parents’ aging hands, your teenager headed back to college, your trendy friend living in snowy New York City, or your friend tending chickens in freezing rural Saskatchewan. Warm and cozy with a simple silhouette, these mittens will look like a pair of bespoke mittens bought from an artisan market. Your giftee will be tickled and overjoyed.

Versatile mitten sewing pattern

Flexible to be sewn with new, scrap, or thrifted fabrics, this mitten pattern also includes alternates to accommodate preferences for finishing your mittens by hand or by machine.

Check out #LovelyEnoughMittens on Instagram to see examples of the beautiful and varied mittens people are making with the pattern.

Download your pattern and start making mittens for you and your loved ones today!

Materials for Sewing Mittens

(for a pair of mittens, any size)
my downloadable mitten pattern
– mitten fabric, ⅓ yd (wool suggested, woven or knit)
– batting, ⅓ yd (optional, cotton or wool)
– lining, ⅓ yd (any soft woven or knit)
– elastic, 8” (¼” – ¾” wide)
– embroidery floss and needle, if you choose to attach elastic and finish wrist by hand

Skill Level – Advanced Beginner

Cozy and quick mitten pattern for your or for a gift! | by Lovely and Enough
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Make Mittens from Old Sweaters

Have you wandered through a craft fair and coveted the cozy patchwork mittens made out of old sweaters, only to flip over the price tag and experience sticker shock? Well, here’s your chance to make your own pair for a fraction of the cost. Swing by your local thrift store or pull an old sweater out of your closet that you never wear and get to work making your very own sweater mittens.

Sizing your sweater mittens

The stretchiness of the sweater will provide a more pliable mitten. This might feel looser than a mitten of the same size made out of woven fabrics. Thus, even if you are using a bulky lining fabric, like minky or sherpa, you probably don’t need to size up like you would otherwise.

That said, if you use a layer of batting, this will remove all stretch again, so plan accordingly. Adding a layer of batting can be nice to keep your hands warmer, especially if the sweater has a loose weave that could let through wind and cold drafts.

Felt your sweater before making

Another option for looser weave sweaters is felting. The easiest way to go about this is to wash your wool sweater in hot water and dry on high. The felting process makes the wool fibers open up (when hot) and then close around each other as they cool, creating a denser fabric. Take note that this will shrink your sweater and could affect whether you have enough material for your mittens. Check out this post at Instructables for more on felting sweaters.

 

Perfect Scrap Buster

This mitten pattern is a perfect scrap buster. The pieces can quite easily be cut out of scrap fabric from another garment project. Leanne of The Bristol Stitchery whipped up a beautiful pair of mittens from her garment sewing scraps. She used waterproof fabric for the exterior and double-lined them to make an ultra-warm and weatherproof pair of mittens. You can check them out and ask her more questions on her Instagram.

Beautiful mittens made using scraps from other garment projects. Mittens and image by Leanne of The Bristol Stitchery.

Beautiful mittens made using scraps from other garment projects. Mittens and image by Leanne of The Bristol Stitchery.

 

Quilt Mittens

Have you been ogling those quilt coats that are all the rage? Well, take it a step at a time and start with some quilt mittens! My mitten pattern is easily adapted to using a quilt block for the back of the hands. Check out the mitten below made with a Christmas Joy Quilt block.

You can find more quilt mitten inspiration on my Quilt Mittens post, as well as a free tutorial for pattern hacking my mitten pattern to make quilt mittens on Lo & Behold Stitchery.

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Tips for Sewing Your Mittens

As I have sewed mittens and experimented with the pattern, I have developed a few tips for success.

Tip 1: How to secure a long zigzag stitch in the seam allowance

Use a very wide and long zigzag stitch, as this helps to maintain the elasticity. However, using a very long zigzag stitch makes it tough to reverse at the start and the stop of the seam inside of the seam allowance. To remedy this, I came up with a little trick.

 In order to squeeze reversing a long zig-zag stitch into the seam allowance, start with your machine set to a very very short, wide stitch. Sew a handful of stitches in the seam allowance, reversing. Then lengthen the stitch to sew across the wrist, without cutting the thread. Finish the seam by shortening the stitch again and reversing in the seam allowance.

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Tip 2: How to create a neat, secure seam at the base of the thumb

Start by pinning the thumb to the thumb-palm seam so that you don’t accidentally sew it into the edge seam. A binding clip or straight pin is perfect for this job. In order to more easily stitch these seams open, wait to trim the thumb seam until after you have attached the front of the mitten to the back. Lastly, make sure to reverse when crossing the junction at the base of the thumb. This is a seam that will take a lot of strain during wear and benefits from the extra reinforcement

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Tip 3: How to keep the wrist elastic taut while hand sewing

Cut a piece of cardboard to slide inside the wrist to keep the wrist elastic taut while hand sewing. The size of the cardboard will depend on the size mitten you are making. It should be about 3–4” long. The widths are as follows: small–4”, medium–4½”, large–5 ⅛”. I also like to put a piece of painter’s tape on the edges to keep it from snagging the batting.

Slide the cardboard inside the wrist, and use a binding clip to secure the elastic at either end of the cardboard. Voila, you are ready to hand tack the elastic!

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Tip 4: How to avoid fluffy linings poking through blanket stitches

I found that when blanket stitching my wrist edges that if my stitches were initiated from the inside of the mitten, then I would inevitably pull fluffy white Sherpa tufts through with each stitch. This left me with a finished edge that didn’t look as neat as I wanted. To avoid this, sew the blanket stitch by pushing needle from the outside of the mitten to the inside as this avoids pushing fuzzy lining through to the outside with each stitch.

In the picture below, the top mitten was stitched from the outside and the bottom mitten was stitched from the inside. I know it’s subtle, but the white fluff balls at the base of each blanket stitch are more visible in person.

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Share Pictures of your Handmade Mittens

I would love to see what you make, so tag your pictures on Instagram with #LovelyEnoughMittens. Can’t wait to see the mittens you create! Stay warm and cozy.

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DIY Professional Quilt Labels

If you've been wanting to make professional quilt labels from the comfort of your home, this is for you. In a matter of an hour, you will have color-fast printed labels to stitch onto backings or into bindings! My favorite part about this version is that I don't have to rely on my hand-writing; I can design my labels with real fonts, which lends a crisp and professional look to the labels.

Supplies:

  • freezer paper

  • fabric

  • computer + inkjet printer with black ink

  • rotary cutter + cutting board

Step One: Design and Test Print

Design your labels and test print them on a piece of printer paper. Test printing is a good idea so that you catch mistakes before it is on your fabric! The design must be in black for it to be wash-fast.

You have options here: I like to fold my labels in half and sew them into the binding, so I leave a large portion blank below each label for the back. I also like to print cut lines, so that is is easy to trim the labels to the correct size. You can also print something on this side if you want! Or you can print labels that will remain flat and are stitched onto the backing. The sky is the limit.

Step Two: Cut

Cut freezer paper to 8.5" x 11"

Step Three: Iron

Iron your freezer paper to the back of the fabric you would like to print your labels onto. Give yourself a small margin of fabric around the edge of the paper. You want a warm dry iron (around the wool setting).

Step Four: Trim

Trim the fabric to the edge of the freezer paper. If you iron on the freezer paper before trimming, it minimizes fraying of the fabric which could jam up your printer.

Step Five: Print!

Run your freezer-paper-fabric combo through you inkjet printer just like a normal sheet of paper. Make sure you are printing on the fabric side!

Step Six: Peel and Heat-set

Peel the freezer paper off the back of your fabric and heat-set the black ink for washfastness. Simply press with a hot dry iron for ~30 seconds.

Step Seven: Cut

Cut out your labels!

Step Eight: Fold

(optional)

This step is optional depending on whether you are folding your labels or not, but I press mine in half.

Step Nine: Fray Check

Fray check the edge of your labels to avoid nasty fringes and fraying through the lifetime of the label.

And voila! You have made professional quilt labels from the comfort of your home for a fraction of the cost of ordering them from a company!

NOTE: DO NOT DO THIS WITH A LASER PRINTER.

THE FREEZER PAPER WILL MELT AND RUIN YOUR PRINTER.

DIY Quilt Labels | Make Your Own Professional Labels with Just a Printer and Freezer Paper

Special thanks to my mom who took all the photos for me and has made me my quilt labels the past two years. She is truly amazing.

No-Sew Modern Hexies

You know he's a keeper when he asks if he can pick your next project because he's been following some quilters on Instagram. Yep. That's exactly how it went. Brent has been following Modern Handcraft for several weeks now, and he is all about her hexie quilts. They are pretty awesome.

modern mint and coral no-sew hexies and tutorial | by Lovely and Enough

The thing is, I'm not into hand-sewing. It's not that I don't like it, but I like going faster than that. So, I decided if I was going to do hexies, I would do them "no sew." If you're just like me and don't like the hand-sewing but love the hexies, this is for you!

Supplies

fabric scraps

paper

printer

basting spray

starch

mini clothespins

(or other, be creative!)

mini clothespins for no-sew hexies and many other adorable uses | Lovely and Enough

1. Choose the size hexies you want.

Mine are about 1 1/4" flat side to flat side.

2. Print your template.

 And cut them out.

Here are some free hexie templates, but I bet you can find more with a simple web search. (Or if you're feeling adventurous, whip up a template yourself for some Adobe Illustrator practice.) Print onto cardstock if you have it. If you don't you can always print onto normal paper and iron a piece of freezer paper to the back for extra stability. (You can also purchase them pre-cut many different places online.)

modern no-sew hexies tutorial | by Lovely and Enough

3. Cut scraps of fabric. 

Aim for at least a quarter inch larger than the template on each side. I did about a half inch. And no need for it to be perfect; I just cut squares.

4. Spray on starch. 

Line them all up on your ironing board and starch as directed. If you don't do the starch before the basting spray, the scraps fly all over the place...

5. Lightly spray with basting spray.

Then stick a template to the middle of each one. If you're worried about your aim or your ironing board, pop a piece of paper or something beneath your hexies before you start.

6. Start folding!

Pick up a hexie and simply start folding the edges over tight against the template. The basting spray helps the fabric stick to the both template and itself. Work your way around the edge. The more care you take here, the crisper your corners! Depending on how big your scrap was, you might have to trim the last piece you fold over. I just clipped a chunk off of a couple, very precise-like.

7. Now for pinning.

 Clothespin-ing that is! Clip a little clothespin on the last fold. If your fabric is thicker, you might need two or three clothespins. Feel it out, but the fewer the clothespins, the easier to iron in the next step. I bet you could also use paper clips, binder clips, hair clips...be creative!

modern no-sew hexies tutorial in mint, peach, and coral | by Lovely and Enough

8. Spritz and press.

Spray a little extra starch onto each hexie and press it with a hot steaming iron. I found it best not to spray the starch onto too many at a time because it loosens them up, and you don't want to give the hexie a long time to relax and blossom before you can press it into submission and crispness. It may go without saying, but edge the iron onto half of your hexie and then unclip the clothespin before really hitting the hexie with a hot iron and a lot of steam.

9. Pull your papers out and voila!

Carefully unfold your last two folds and slip the template out. Don't worry; it may take a little tug due to the basting spray. Then you can press it again for good measure if you'd like. And ta da! No-sew hexie ready for use!

Once you have your little pile, you can head over the Modern Handcraft and see how she "no hand-sews" her hexies to quilts! I've already got mine sewn onto a quilt that I will share later this week!

Don't love hand sewing but love hexies? This tutorial is for you! Just grab your basting spray and starch and get ready for the hexie fun to begin!

Simple Screen Printing

Today was an adventure.

I read a tutorial by Lotta Jansdotter about screen printing fabric with simple supplies and picked up the needed supplies last night and. So, after church today, I set out to print my own fabric. During the sermon, I had doodled Jerusalem crosses, the details on the organ, and the patterns on the lights hanging from the ceiling. Once home, I sketched a little more and vectorized some of the patterns in Adobe Illustrator. The first pattern seemed more suited to block printing, so I switched directions and went for teetering rows of semi-circles.

Here is a simple tutorial:

Materials
organza
embroidery hoop
acrylic paint
fabric medium
masking tape
paper or acetate

First, I stretched the organza across the hoop and masking taped it to the edges.


Next, I printed out the drunken circles and made a template. The paper ripped at the little spots between the semi-circles, so I put a layer of masking tape across the back. 




Once they were cut out, I taped the template to the organza. After the time intensive template cutting, I realized why Lotta used acetate instead of paper. That way you can easily rinse it off and re-use it. 



After creating my screen, I thinned some white acrylic paint and tried out my new stencil on gray paper. I scientifically globbed the paint onto the bottom edge and squeegeed it up to the top with an old student ID. Each try was more successful than the last. Tips: Only squeegee across once. Keep the ID at a 30˙ angle with the screen. Make your template small enough so as to easily squeegee in one stroke.


Then it was time for the fabric. I wrapped one of my handy dandy design boards in a grocery bag as a padded surface to stamp on, laid out the fabric under my hoop, and went to town. I printed a fat quarter, and learned something each time I printed it.




As you can see, my stencil is a little too tall to squeegee evenly to the top, and slightly wider than my student-ID. However, I have now printed my first fabric design, and I am über excited to try again!